Today was my first full day in Shaxi which I spent puttering around and renting a bike (that had almost no brakes). I crossed the highway, rode along a road made of little stones to an even smaller village on a hillside, then through the village out to the farming area behind. I finally broke down and asked a tiny elderly woman who was carrying a very heavy load of wood if I could take her picture - although I actually felt I should be offering to carry the basket for her. She didn't mind and I gave her a little money afterwards, but I wished that I had thought to show her the photo as well. When I thought of it later I rode back to find her but she was gone. Leaving the village I went back into Shaxi on a different route and then cycled on the roads beside the river which were gravelled and flat. There was time for reading before supper so I took my book down to the river. 3 young men showed up with tubs of noodles which were tossed into the river when they were done (I had to bite my tongue). As they were leaving one (who wore an earring) came over and sat very close beside me with his face up to mine, ostensibly to look at my book - several younger boys had also showed up and were directing comments at me too - it was the first time I'd felt at all fearful since I arrived - somewhat like I was being swarmed. But I showed him my book, resisted the urge to stand up, and they left shortly after.
A happier encounter at the river was with a young couple whom I'd met earlier in the day. I'd mentioned that I was hiring a car to see the stone carvings and asked if they wanted to join me and share the cost of 150 CNY - at the river they let me know that they've decided to come. So at 9:30 am we're off to visit various sites on a mountain where temples and statues have been carved into the mountain sides. They're from the UK, have been in China for 2 months of the 10 they plan to stay for, and he's a photographer. I'd like to ask him how he manages photographing people, although he has a large zoom lense so perhaps his subjects don't even know they're being photographed.
At 7 pm the hostel had a "family dinner" cooked by the owner, Shirley. No other guests were there - it was Shirley, Sleeper (a young Chinese employee), and Lily Hyde who is an author (Dreamland) from the UK, and lightly employed at the hostel. Lily's been in China for 10 months and is writing her 2nd book while she's at the hostel. The dinner was delicious and the conversation good as both as both Shirley and Sleeper speak English. Shirley shared her plans to start a kindergarten with some friends in Dali that will focus more on play than academics - she talked about the common stereo-type of Chinese people being studious, academically accomplished and no fun. Her friends have children who are about to go to kindergarten and who don't agreee with the current emphasis on academics for young children and believe in the need for play and creativity at this age.
I'm looking forward to having company on my trip tomorrow and being able to speak more English
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